Fritillaria imperialis, as the name implies, is the emperor of all fritillaries. The regal stature of the plant, is anywhere from 70 centimetres to 100 centimetres in height. The lance-like, shiny green leaves, whorled around the upright lower stem, culminate in a ring of bell-shaped red, orange or yellow flowers around the stem are topped with a tuft of leaves. The combination of the flowers and tuft of leaves forms a veritable tiara, making a commanding presence in the spring border.
This member of the lily family is native to the Middle East and Asia. In its native habitat, in the Himalayas and Turkey, it is the rare plant in the northern region that is pollinated by the Eurasian blue tit. This little bird, attracted by the nectar, rubs its head against the pollen in the flower cup and thus transfers it to other blooms. In cultivation, European honey bees and bumble bees are also attracted to fritillaria.
Each year, I am alerted to its emergence by the pungent foxy odour exuded by the leaves, perhaps announcing to people, pets and other small mammals its toxicity.
Even though this fritillary is not typically hardy in zone 3, the big box stores often have it available in fall, usually in packages containing two bulbs. One year I just could not resist the temptation. The bulbs I bought were the size of a small fist and smelled like skunk. They have a deep indent, where the stem used to be.
For best results, plant them on their side, to prevent water from collecting in this cavity and rotting out the bulb. Typically, they should be planted about 25cm deep in well-drained, humus-rich soil. They are said to prefer full sun to partial shade. I planted one in full sun, and one about 50cm from the foundation of the house facing the morning sun. Perhaps because of the unique microclimate, close to the house, it has consistently bloomed each spring for the last five years. In the last two, it has sent up more than one stalk, but the smaller ones have died back before blooming. The bulb I planted in full sun never appeared.
If you want to try this plant, purchase your bulbs as soon as they become available. The bulbs do not have a protective coating and need to be planted as soon as possible after harvest. Water them thoroughly after planting. In a dry spring, begin watering them as soon as the foliage emerges and throughout their growing season. After flowering, during the summer, it can be left warm and dry, I generally ignore it until the next spring.
Fritillaria meleagris | Photo by Bernadette Vangool
For those of you who want to be assured of success, you may want to try Fritillaria meleagris, which is fully hardy in our region and will self-seed and naturalize in the right conditions. Fritillaria meleagris, also known as the snake lily or the checkered lily, is native to the flood river plains of Europe. It is available for purchase in fall, in an assortment of colours from purple to white, often displaying a checkerboard pattern. the leaves are grass-like. Plant them in humus rich soil, and like the Emperor, keep moist until the foliage dies down. I find they do better in dappled shade than in full sun.
Fritillaria pallidiflora, also known as the Siberian fritillary, is a pale flowered fritillary that naturalized in a friend's garden in the Grasswood area. The flower cup is pale yellow or cream, and the leaves are wider than Fritilaria meleagris.
Fritilaria imperialis, the king of all fritillaries. | Photo by Bernadette Vangool
Fritillaria is usually disease-free, but is highly susceptible to the lily leaf beetle (lilioceris lilii). The lily beetle can decimate many plants in the lily family, including fritillaria, lilies, martagon lilies and also some hosta varieties. They will attack the flowers, stems, and buds of the Fritillaria. The best-known method of control is to pick them off manually from the undersides of leaves. Disturbing the earth around their favourite plants will expose the adults, and you can dispatch them in some soapy water. Chemical control is not recommended as this will damage your fritillary plants and also be detrimental to beneficial insects.
This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS; [email protected]). Check our website () or Facebook page () for a list of upcoming gardening events.
